Introduction
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The lake,
with the mountain of Gunung Chini
in the background. |
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Tucked away in a quiet corner of the Malaysian state
of Pahang lies the legendary lake of Tasik Chini. The ancient legends of
this enchanting lake involve tales of sorcery and dragons, but the modern
saga of this wetland is one of ecological mismanagement and the near
collapse of a delicate ecosystem. Hopefully, it looks like the story may
have a happy ending.
Myths and Legends
Local legend tells a tale of a wandering group of
Jakun tribesmen who cleared the land to grow food crops. During their
labour, an old woman appeared who proclaimed that she was the rightful
owner of the land and that her permission should have been sought before
any trees were felled. The Jakun humbly apologised, whereupon the woman
allowed the men to continue their work. Before departing, however, she
planted her walking stick in the ground as a mark of her ownership,
telling the men never to remove it.
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Beautiful sunsets are
common. |
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The men continued with their work, but some time
later they heard one of their dogs barking and snarling at a decaying
log. One of the Jakun threw his stick at the log, but immediately a
torrent of blood issued from the log causing the man to run back to his
friends in fear. His friends thought he was possessed by demons and
tried to keep away from him. However, the barking continued so the
entire tribe returned to investigate the log. A spreading pool of blood
had formed around the log.
In fear they hurled their own sticks at the sight,
whereupon a dark cloud gathered in the sky. The thunder roared, the
lightning flashed and a torrent of rain fell from the sky. The men grabbed
their belongings and ran for cover, but in the chaos one of them pulled
the old woman's stick from the ground - the very stick which they had been
warned not to touch. Immediately a fountain of water poured from the hole
made by the stick. The water flowed for many years, thereby creating the
lake of Tasik Chini. The tribe realised then that the log was actually the
dragon called Naga Seri Gumum.
Of course, no magical lake would be complete without
stories of a resident monster or a long-lost, sunken city. So, Tasik Chini
has both ! Much like the famous Loch Ness, a serpent-like monster is
reputed to make the lake its home. More seriously, there are theories that
an ancient Khmer city once existed in the vicinity which has prompted
archaeological studies of the lake and its surrounds.
The Sacred Lotus
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Flower and receptacle of the
Sacred Lotus Nelumbo nucifera |
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In reality, Tasik Chini is less a lake and more a
naturally dammed tributary of the mighty Pahang River, which lies to the
north. Until recently the lake's waters rose and fell with the seasons -
during the rainy season the waters were unable to flow down the narrow
Sungai Chini and so became backed up in a series of lakes. A unique
ecosystem developed, dominated by the presence of the Sacred Lotus
Nelumbo nucifera which once covered the entire surface of the lake
system.
During low waters the lotus seeds would germinate,
the roots would take hold in the soft mud and the stunning blooms would
appear on the water's surface. During monsoonal floods, from October to
January the lotus would die back but, the flowers having been fertlised,
new seeds would litter the lake bottom awaiting the dry season.
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This lotus receptacle contains
31 edible seed-like fruits |
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Foolishly, in 1995 the State Government Of Pahang,
in a bid to make the lakes more appealing to visitors in the dry season,
built a dam at the point where the Sungai Chini enters the Pahang River.
The waters were then never able to recede again. It wasn't long before the
ecosystem started showing signs of stress.
The lotuses became fewer and fewer with the passing
years, and large stands of various species of Eugenia trees which
border the lake also died back, being unable to tolerate constant
submergence. Happily, the mistake has been rectified; in early 2000 the
dam was breached and redesigned to accommodate the annual rise and fall of
the waters. The lotuses are returning once again, however it will be
decades before the damage to the Eugenia is healed.
Local Wildlife
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Dieback of Eugenia sp -
due to
lake level mismanagement |
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The lake area comprises over 200 hectares of open
water, and 700 hectares of freshwater swamp and swamp forest. In addition
to the abundant lotuses, thickets of Pandanus helicopus or Rasau
are common towards the margins, along with occasional water lilies.
Encounters with turtles are common including the Malayan Soft
Shelled Turtle Amyda cartilaginea and
Spiny Terrapin Heosemys
spinosa.
The surrounding forests are also rich in wildlife.
In the dipterocarp forest primates such as the Banded Langur Presbytis
femoralis, the handsome
White-handed Gibbon
Hylobates Lar, the ubiquitous
Long-tailed Macaque
Macaca fascicularis and the
Sunda Pig-tailed Macaque
Macaca nemestrina may be encountered. The latter species is a common
pet of the Jakun people, who still eke a living from the lake and its
surroundings. The status of larger mammals in the area, such as Elephant,
Tiger and Tapir is unclear.
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The Sunda Pig-tailed Macaque
Macaca nemestrina - commonly kept as pets by the Jakun people. |
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Curiously the lake does not seem so attractive to
bird life, however common forest-edge species such as bulbuls, orioles and
bee-eaters are present, and various kingfishers may be seen, including the
uncommon Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting. Overhead the rare
Grey-headed Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus still circles.
The lake also serves as an important breeding ground
for fish species which upon reaching adulthood then populate the Pahang
River. Their migration is now largely unimpeded by the previously dammed
mouth of the Sungai Chini.
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